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Anonymous12/03/25, 02:03No.4486047Print Shop
Has anyone got experience editing their photographs for print? I trialled a few papers and found I like Ilford Smooth Pearl because it's best for a range of global adjustments, even if it's a bit too shiny.
If you have printed, how many times did you have to print to get what you wanted? If I want to sell prints, should I just accept this is going to be a big learning curve? So many papers change how the photograph comes out and it's not an exact science. Postproduction is as much an artform as capturing an image with the camera.
I'd love to hear what you have worked on and what you learned. I feel a bit in the dark but will probably realise what I want from my prints in the future. Some people can look at a print and immediately what is wrong with it, but my eyes still need some time to adjust while I learn.
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Anon12/03/25, 13:18No.4486116
go to a shop where the printer will sit with you for a few minutes and go over your pictures, showing you what they look like on their calibrated equipment. when you decide what look you like, bring them the rest of your files and they will edit them for print.
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Anon12/03/25, 13:49No.4486118
I go to the big box store here and order it on the one kind of fujifilm paper they offer in lustre finish (also the only on offer) and it comes out great. There are no real alternatives untill you go to botique printing shops that'll assfuck you for price because the only people who can afford the hobby are normally rich Eastern Suburbs boomers.Anyway,
>NR
Go lighter on lumainance NR than you'd normally accept for digital. Chroma NR should be basically the same though. Noise is hidden decently by the ink printing compared to digital viewing especially since you can't zoom in.
>Exposure
Underexposed sections are exaccerbated (i've tried 5 different shops and this has been constant, ymmv) so you're better off lifting the shadows a fraction more than you'd be happy for digital. The extra noise is hidden rather well by the ink as above.
>Sharpening
Edit for digital viewing as normal, then do another unsharp mask pass specifically for printing; it should look slightly too crunchy on a screen but the purpose is to overcome the micro-smearing from the ink. This can take some trial and error, as you can absolutely still oversharpen and it'll look like ass.