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Anonymous05/01/26, 16:30No.2867623This hafting method simply does not work
Every single axe I have ever used that looks like picrel has the head start coming loose after only a few weeks. Every single time. It's retarded that I can't buy a wood handled axe that is made correctly out of the box. Even with premium brands like Gransfors, while the heads may not come loose, they are hung crooked half the time, and there's no store where you can pick out a straight one in person. I don't have time for these shop projects to fix these issues myself, an axe should just be fucking made right.
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Anon05/02/26, 05:33No.2867689
diy
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Anon05/02/26, 13:43No.2867714
>and there's no store where you can pick out a straight one in person
So you have all your axes delivered?
Or is the axe store like a fast food joint where you place an order, they bag it all in the back and just hand you a bag full of shit?
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Anon05/11/26, 23:40No.2868395
Gransfors bruks used to be considered cheap low tier axes. They do make axes out of good steel, but that’s it. You have to re-bevel the taper and often, like you mention, re handle it yourself. Husqvarna axes are literally gransfors axes at half the price.There are good axes out there, but they fetch an absolute premium. Like 250 usd to start. Best bet is to buy something pre 1940 and handle it with a Hoffman handles handle. Probably need to re- bevel the edge first. I have dozens of old axes I restored. Some are absolute laser beams.
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Anon06/08/26, 06:11No.2871235
I mainly only use axes for hewing, but bent handles don't seem to hinder me much. The main complaint is that handles have fat ass profiles that are shocking to the hand as bought, and some seriously uncomfortable "sticky" finish. One thing too is that the heads I have rehandled have eyes that seem to be simply punched out and not drifted or cleaned up in any way, so the hole is basically straight, rather than bellmouthed on either end as it should be. They also terminate in sharp corners, often with the burrs from punching intact. Installing handles without rectifying this problem results in the edge of the eye cutting into the wood rather than compressing it (and letting the wood expand on the other end with the wedge).
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Anon07/04/26, 03:07No.2873689
Tap handle on ground to tighten, then hit plug withbhanmer, if not tight enough drive a nail into the wood between the plug and front of the ax head with a hammer and another at the rear, when tight enough use hacksaw to cut off the excess nail part to make it flush
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Anon07/07/26, 02:06No.2873991
am I the only one who just seals my axe by cutting off the top, placing it in, and using industrial grade wood glue to seal the top back on before shaping it?
You're only going to be generating at best case like 1k lbs of force and inch squared is 4k lbs of force held. Been doing it for decades and just works, you have to still use linseed every once in a while, but i've never had an axe head come loose. I usually use a small strip of purple heart to help reinforce the handle and top.
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Anon07/11/26, 23:26No.2874333
cut a wedge from some hardwood
hammer it into the head
there, its secure.
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Anon07/13/26, 09:27No.2874463
i have only horrible experience with wooden handles. no matter how much you secure it (unless you want a heavy oak handle), it is just soft wood that WILL eventually fail due to fibre compression. no, i refuse to repair an axe every month like a retard. I just bough fiskars and it's indestructible.
>ib4 skill issue
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Anon07/15/26, 19:38No.2874684
Thats a manufacturing issue more than an issue with the circular wedge. A well hung axe shouldn’t even need that part. Installing it wouldn’t make it any looser.