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Anonymous04/26/25, 04:34No.2912365My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robots Project - #5
Last Threads: https://warosu.org/diy/?task=search2&search_username=artbyrobot
To begin: the project goal: I am working to make a series of humanoid robots. I am using a Biblical theme of naming the first 3 robots I make Adam, Eve, and Abel. The goal is for these robots to have human body inspired musculoskeletal systems, advanced AI, and that they look human and pass for human to a casual observer at least at a distance. They must be able to walk, talk, run, dance, do sports, do chores, manufacture products, and make more robots just like themselves if not even better. My aim is to build a single robot arm and head and then add sufficiently advanced AI to that arm and head to enable it to build the rest of its own body for me. This way I am delegating the work of building the majority of my first humanoid robot to that robot rather than doing that work myself - and this is to save me time.
In a like manner, my goal with the AI is to code just enough AI that the AI can begin coding itself and this way I don't have to code most of the AI myself because it will self create itself. I liken this to building a seed and that seed growing into a tree because for me to code that tree would take too long for me and just creating the seed would then save me time.
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Anon04/26/25, 04:36No.2912366
Its too many things at once. I hate that theres this notion that why bother with the robot if ai will maje it eventually. AI is a bloated datasate attached to a token predictor.
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Anon04/29/25, 05:50No.2913048
After further consideration, I'm scrapping using the elastic cord for a bracelet idea (as a tension spring for the winch in place pulley). The point of that was to use as little space as possible but I just don't trust it. I am not sure what material it is made of and my experience with rubber bands has always been dry rot issues. I am going with 2mm OD tension spring instead. It has to stretch 12.5" and so I'm using a 12.7" strip of it to start. That feels like a snug stretch but does comfortably reach the 12.5" of stretch needed. This brings its stretched total length to 25.2". I bought 3mm ID 4mm OD TPFE tubing to be its guidance tube for this. That arrives tomorrow and then I can begin assembly.This 4mm OD guidance tube is a bit bulky and long for the arm IMO so I will relocate it to the torso since if I use this method for other motors these 4mm OD tubes will add up in space taken up fast. The arm can't house them - it's just too much space taken at that point for these. But the torso can house them in the back or sides I think. For now, since the torso is not yet attached, I'm going to place this tube ON the string suspended from my ceiling and treat that string as though it were to torso for now.
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Anon04/30/25, 02:16No.2913236
Here is the tension spring in question from the previous post. I want this spring inside the tubing though which is not shown in the drawing of it.
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Anon04/30/25, 04:21No.2913253
>In a like manner, my goal with the AI is to code just enough AI that the AI can begin coding itself
AI models are not code. You could create an AI model that can train an AI model, but that's essentially just automating the training process, which is trivial to do without AI. The hard part of training an AI model is acquiring the necessary compute and data, neither of which any existing AI can give you a meaningful amount of assistance with.
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Anon04/30/25, 08:01No.2913291
i already posted where the bar is. If you can make a walking robot that can turn around and doesnt fall youd beat 99% of engineers.
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Anon04/30/25, 08:43No.2913296
How about you start a little smaller....
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Anon05/01/25, 04:02No.2913527
I'm with you, I think.I'm NOT going for "humanoid", in fact I don't yet know exactly WTF it might look like, but it will be on wheels, not "feet".Right now I'm trying to sus out what might be folding position adjusting "legs" that while able to be positioned along circular path by some gearing, would also have "give" at any set position to also be road worthy suspension. Should be able have spring and damping of movement in both directions of the sweep.Also trying to figure out, in addition to a fully Electronic wheel hub motor, a way to mechanically transmit power via chains, belts or shafts and gears, from a central source out to movable and STEERABLE legs and wheels.Might end up with fully manual steering, and some belts that can handle some angle movement of pulleys, and if an increase in throttle gives some "steering feedback" that might be "acceptable" and just part of the new Motorsport. Heck, maybe having a power increase tend to straighten out steering would be desirable.Might use something like this, but I'm fighting for distance across the axle and would rather have one of those "axle comes out only on one side" setups.
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Scooter-Brushless-Gearless-Conversion/dp/B0CCP8NM6H/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=z3ulV&content-id=amzn1.sym.255b3518-6e7f-495c-8611-30a58648072e%3Aamzn1.symc.a68f4ca3-28dc-4388-a2cf-24672c480d8f&pf_rd_p=255b3518-6e7f-495c-8611-30a58648072e&pf_rd_r=4FEG6Y5M6YMSBNHE0KQG&pd_rd_wg=FrjTU&pd_rd_r=0998d180-0d8c-4a6a-ba06-9d5ab8e42210&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d&th=1
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Anon05/05/25, 10:22No.2914501
torque of the hip motor=weight of the robot*length of the leg*sin(45)
if a robot is 1 kilogram and the length of the leg is 1 meter then that meabs
1*1*sin(45)=6.94 newton meters
Which means it can be powered by mg996r servos at high voltage
i came accross that formula on youtube
that is only part of it though
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Anon05/05/25, 12:24No.2914524
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NimROnJeQDYThis guy made a pretty sick robot hand, people here were shitting on your joints but he's basically done it with servos and string.
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Anon05/05/25, 18:38No.2914625
Art you should come tell us about your project over on /g/.
>>>/g/105168159
I think lots of people there would be interested to hear about it and could offer some advice and perhaps do some of the busywork for you.
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Anon05/06/25, 04:51No.2914737
thanks for that link. I've read their whole catalog and started posting my project over there a little over a year ago. I have like 70 posts there.
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Anon05/08/25, 01:05No.2915285
im just going to record myself gambling and drinking fruity vodka with coke. Hows that for an upcoming robot waifu video?
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Anon05/10/25, 10:32No.2915858
Good news: I had mentioned before I was planning to use 2mm OD tension spring for the winch in place pulley tension solution but once I got the 3mm ID 4mm OD PTFE tubing to go over the spring, I saw that the 4mm was just WAY too big once you multiply that out to 300 motors. 300 of 4mm OD tubing starts to take up a massive area at that point and I struggled with that. I MUST be miserly on space taken up by parts to get all the crap I need to fit in there to fit in there! Anyways, I fortunately discovered that you can buy tension spring down to 1mm in OD! I was unaware of this before now! You can find it if you search "0.2x1.5x1000mm tension spring" where 0.2mm is wire thickness, 1.5mm is OD, 1000mm is length. So I ordered 1mm OD tension spring and 1.5mm OD tension spring to test and see what seems best. If the 1mm OD spring seems reliable to me, I'll go with it. Anyways, since the spring is now smaller, I can use also a smaller PTFE tubing to house the spring so I ordered uxcell PTFE Tubing 1.8mm ID x 2.2mm OD off amazon. 2.2mm OD tubing compared to 4mm tubing is SHOCKINGLY smaller when you look at them. So it will be WAY more space efficient now.Here's my updated tension spring concept drawing:
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Anon05/10/25, 14:52No.2915901
how about this.
i make the small scale robot walk then i paywall the code behind my patreon and you cite me on your research paper.
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Anon05/10/25, 21:34No.2915969
https://www.clonerobotics.com/
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Anon05/20/25, 01:37No.2918217
https://vocaroo.com/18yaezIF5SRy
Video format (.webm) not supported YET!
View here : Click here
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Anon05/22/25, 21:45No.2918946
Ok so I currently have an order for 0.2x1x1000mm tension springs stuck in customs for weeks and placed another order just today for the same in hopes it goes through faster. But at $9 for a single spring that is 3ft long, I am feeling RIPPED OFF on price. It is bullcrap. All relating to the tariff nonsense. So I decided today to pivot and just roll with the elastic band in place of tension spring. It's a jewelry making elastic band I bought some time ago in a roll. WAY cheaper at $0.03 for 3ft instead of $9 for 3ft. That's 99.7% off! Talk about a discount! The issue I had before when I looked into this option was the tie-off point. I would need a way to tie PE fishing line to the end of the elastic band without the tie point being bulky. Well I figured out a way to do it without any bulk at all! See I want this to fit into my 1.8mm ID PTFE tubing to keep size down. My solution was to just glue the fishing line lengthwise directly to the elastic band. No knot at all. No turns at all. Just literally lay it on top and glue it down flush. I figured about 6mm length of joint would be solid. And I did this on both sides with my PE fishing line. I used 0.08mm 6lb test braided PE fishing line for this. So now I have two fishing line segments coming off the end of it for double the strength of this connection. But I only wanted one piece of fishing line to go the distance to attach to the motor end so I twisted the pair of fishing line segments together and glued the twisted pair with 401 glue then cut one of the two away leaving just one of the pair to go the distance to the winch in place pulley that this is all supposed to tension for me.
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Anon05/22/25, 21:46No.2918947
I will use this string and elastic band method for now as I wait on springs and stick with this method for at least this first motor actuator setup for now. If the elastic bands don't last, we'll upgrade to the metal springs later on during maintenance or w/e.Note: the total length of the elastic band I am using for this is 2ft and it stretches to 3ft snugly without too much force. I'm just going by feel and instinct for this measurement. If I were to go 1ft with 1ft of stretch, the stretch is more intense and the pull is harder. But I don't think I need much pull for just tensioning the winch in place pulley and I also think the more tension you place the more wear and tear on the elastic band which will shorten its lifespan. So playing it conservatively with the 2ft length selection for now.Note: to apply the 401 glue I used an exacto knife handle with a sewing needle in place of the xacto knife blade and the tip of the sewing needle acts as my precision glue applicator.
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Anon05/26/25, 16:11No.2919804
The 1mm OD springs just came in the mail now that I've already switched to elastic bands. Oh well I'm sticking to the elastic bands and springs only for future actuators if ever. They are awefully expensive right now IMO.
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Anon05/30/25, 15:27No.2920755
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-NCFSEHTnMThis is some inspiring stuff. Elon's team is crushing it! Too bad they aren't going for realistic human passing robots like me. Little to nothing I can use from their design in my own work.
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Anon06/05/25, 10:11No.2922170
Sorry for lack of updates lately I've been swamped with work. My simple next goal is just attach the micro tubing near the motor winch in place pulley and run the tensioning string through that out to near shoulder. I think I'll connect that up to my elastic band and run that up to ceiling of room for testing only.
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Anon06/11/25, 14:09No.2923445
You should get in the habit of once every week or two weeks writing up a status report - make sure the time interval is consistent so you get a feeling for how much progress has been made and the time spent to make it.
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Anon06/11/25, 19:43No.2923505
>>>/vt/100992514
Better hurry up the development or you'll be overtaken.
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Anon06/12/25, 14:11No.2923692
All that is missing is the flux capacitor.
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Anon06/12/25, 23:19No.2923810
What do you thnik about embodied cognition as necessary for an AGI, anon OP?
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Anon06/13/25, 18:03No.2923933
Sometimes to get the braided PE fishing line threaded through the fine PTFE tubing can be tricky, so I came up with a neat device to assist in this. I will be making a threading tool based on a needle threader tool I've been using. It's basically a wire folded in half that you shove through a needle eye and then stick your string into its end and then pull it back through the needle eye. In my use case, I'm creating a custom one of these threading tools that will feed through my entire length of tubing till its folded end comes out the other side and I can thread my string through that end and then draw it back, bringing the string through the tubing with it. I just ordered some 40ga copper and stainless steel wire to use to make this device in question. I'll see which metal is best. Gonna try the copper first I think.
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Anon06/18/25, 05:26No.2924851
one day we will stop getting updates and it will be sadOP, you need some form of deadman switch that gives us one final update in case of your demise
archiving all your important progress and advancements for others to study is paramount
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Anon06/18/25, 11:45No.2924901
>"my"
>"advanced"
>"humanoid"
>"robot"
>"project"
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Anon06/19/25, 19:29No.2925254
https://clonerobotics.com/android
what is OP doing that this multibillion dollar company with investors can't?
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Anon06/23/25, 16:10No.2926154
I'm struggling to find time for this atm but hopefully will be able to ASAP.
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Anon06/26/25, 20:50No.2926941
What happened to the discord?
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Anon06/29/25, 00:12No.2927432
Why are people here instead of alogs?
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Anon06/29/25, 07:27No.2927506
>human body inspired musculoskeletal systems
Please Dont, robots dont need to have our muscle-skeletal systems that's just autismo, use the arthropod/puppet way
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Anon07/02/25, 16:05No.2928424
I've been working on a robotic lawnmower recently which will share the code and alot of tech I'm using for the electronics of this.
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Anon07/04/25, 15:01No.2928943
i'm thinking of putting chat gpt in a ventriloquist dummy, maybe we could collaborate?
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Anon07/14/25, 19:11No.2931376
well we cant get into your head you know this is coming together though.
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Anon07/16/25, 04:22No.2931776
just checking in quick to see if the retarded fresk is still at it
day 3600 of nothing of value produced lmao
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Anon07/19/25, 22:44No.2932693
Minor update: I have now carefully mounted the PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner for the winch in place pulley. I mounted it snugly to the side of the PTFE tubing coming off the same winch in place pulley that leads to the Archimedes pulley system. I routed both of these using my CAD for reference in such a way that their routing will not interfere with the next motors that will be installed later. I mounted this PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner using ONLY 401 glue which is something I've never tried before now. Usually I first wrap the tubing in adhesive transfer tape and spandex cloth wrap and coat the cloth in 401 glue but skipping that made it able to be more snugly mounted to the other tube by way of only glue. We'll see how that holds up without the other reinforcement the cloth provides etc. Seems to look so far so good though. They are in turn glued to paper soaked with 401 glue and to a little piece of stainless steel wire bent at a 90 and that wire in turn glued to the winch in place pulley mount baseplate which is itself made of paper and 401 glue. So basically everything is becoming 401 glue construction! I have some concerns about how this will hold up in the event of a fall or w/e but perhaps we can create some sort of protective cage around any delicate outcroppings like this in the future. For now I am just going for ease of construction and speed of construction to get things back on track and rolling again.Note: The PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner for the winch in place pulley is 0.66mm ID 1.16mm OD PTFE teflon tubing. The string coming off the winch in place pulley feeding into this tubing that will act as tensioner string tension carrier string is 6lb test 0.08mm PE braided fishing line. I was able to thread this fishing line into this TPFE tubing by hand with no issues at all very easily.
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Anon07/19/25, 22:45No.2932694
The next task will be to mount the end of this string to the 2 feet of elastic string for jewelry making and thread that into 1.8mm ID 2.2mm OD PTFE tubing and tie it off at the end of that tubing and then mount that tubing to the gray string hanging from my ceiling for now. That will conclude the tensioner mechanism for the winch in place pulley and this will usher in the next round of manual hand testing to see how much tension that is giving us. I also will be moving the tension spring mounted on the motor to align it better and shorten it more since it only moves like 4mm and so can be way shorter than it is now.
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Anon07/21/25, 21:07No.2933164
I finally finished making the tensioner mechanism for the winch in place pulley and I taped it off up the string descending from the ceiling and taped the far end of it onto the ceiling. I noticed I have to keep it as straight as possible since when curling with too much turning the elastic bracelet cord grips the sides of the PTFE tubing which could interfere with the amount of tension it brings to my winch in place pulley. So this will mean on the robot itself it will have to go from the shoulder all the way down the torso in a straight line and then down the leg to about the knee as well. It's 44" long in total. I ended up bumping up the elastic bracelet cord to 30" long to reduce the amount of tension it puts on the winch in place pulley more. The longer it is the less tension it brings and the shorter it is the more tension it brings. If it really can't fit into the leg I can cut the elastic bracelet cord in half and place braided PE fishing line in between the two halves and have that make a 180 degree turn around a pulley and thereby have the same length of elastic bracelet cord but separated into two halves mounted parallel to eachother that create a in series matching tension but taking up half the overall length. This way I could keep it out of the leg area if needed. However I think it might fit into the leg area fine perhaps. Not sure (once we get all the other motors and their tension strings that amount of 2.2mm OD PTFE tubing will start to add up.
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Anon07/21/25, 21:08No.2933165
Note: I'm also considering taking the elastic bracelet cord out of the tubing and lubing it then putting it back in since lube on the grippy elastic bracelet cord would take away it gripping the sides of the PTFE tubing some I think. Silicone lube is best for this according to chat gpt.Note: to secure the far end of the elastic bracelet cord I used 401 glue to glue on PE fishing line onto its end the same way as we discussed before and then took the far end of this PE fishing line and came out the end of the PTFE tube with it and taped it off onto the outside of the tube. We'll see how that holds up it might need to be glued down if it gradually is pulled through the tape over time which would be no good.
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Anon07/22/25, 02:32No.2933225
Are you having sex with that thing? There was an anon that was also autistic and had a basement full of sex dolls, maybe you guys could meet and be friends.
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Anon07/28/25, 04:00No.2934777
I've been trying to come up with a way to adjust tension on the finger extension spring in case it loosens over time.
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Anon07/29/25, 01:38No.2934950
Good fucking god
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4bzQV3ntRE
See a brain doctor immediately
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Anon07/29/25, 16:05No.2935064
ill start taking you seriously if you show a moving hand. until then you're either a RPer or a schizo.
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Anon08/01/25, 13:03No.2935607
The tension spring mounted to the motor setup upon further testing seems like a somewhat bad method. The issue I'm having is too much play in the tubing running between that spring and the finger joint. When tension is applied to that spring by way of the tubing, the tubing recoils and moves quite alot and allows alot of slack out to the joint so that the spring has very little involvement in the joint and doesn't really get used much period. So the full range of motion of the joint is just absorbed by tubing slack. When I tried to pretension the tubing so that the joint movement translates to the spring, the total tension placed on the joint by this became too high.Fortunately, I came up with a much more elegant and simple solution for all of this. Basically, my plan now is to just use the bracelet cord tied point to point across the joint directly on the joint and that will be my spring for extension that counters the motor. This eliminates the need for metal springs at all which cuts costs, it also eliminates the PTFE tubing run, saving some space, and should be easier to install and easier to give precise amount of elasticity/resistance to taste. If I want more springback on the joint I can just add more bracelet cord in parallel to the first. This way I can add more resistance pretty easily.
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Anon08/02/25, 10:15No.2935790
So in recent testing a fresh issue I ran into was the TPFE tubing would start gradually pulling through its tightly wrapped tape sleeve to my surprise. Its low friction surface gradually pulls free of the tape over time. To resolve this, I decided to thread through the tip of the tubing to create a mechanical bond for the tip and once threaded through I just 401 glued down the ends of each thread onto the sleeve that was originally supposed to hold it in place to begin with. This seems to work great so far in the little bit of testing I've done since.
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Anon08/02/25, 10:16No.2935791
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Anon08/07/25, 15:42No.2936889
Artbyrobot kinda fell off desu...
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Anon08/14/25, 03:28No.2938170
Gary used to be a really good artist
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giPcnXulDaoDid you have a stroke or head injury or something between 2006 and now? Your old art was genuinely great but your diagrams look nothing like it
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Anon08/20/25, 07:19No.2939422
I figured out a robust way to make the extension cord for finger extension using the bracelet cord and a fishing crimp sleeve. The idea is to crimp the two ends of a folded in half strip of bracelet cord and this way both ends can be sewn down into the fabric without any gluing which could potentially fail or be a weak point. I am planning to use this in place of the tension spring style finger extension setup.
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Anon08/21/25, 01:26No.2939598
"The difference between confidence and arrogance is being able to back up your BS" - John Maddox.I found this an interesting take. I wonder if some people will retroactively consider my positions in robotics to be confidence instead of arrogance if one day I succeed to some arbitrary level to their satisfaction whereas I'm presumed arrogant until proven confident until then.
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Anon08/21/25, 14:32No.2939712
Question for you, Art.
What do you consider your greatest achievement in robotics to date?
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Anon08/25/25, 03:58No.2940617
When will the lactating prego sex bots become readily available?
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Anon08/26/25, 02:02No.2940846
>my goal with the AI is to code just enough AI that the AI can begin coding itself
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Anon08/27/25, 21:47No.2941271
Ok I figured out a bit easier way: tie a knot at each end of the strip of bracelet cord and then tie my nylon thread off onto the bracelet cord inside that bracelet cord knot. The bracelet cord knot on each end acts as an endstop. Seems to work great so far and cuts down on materials this way over the previous way I proposed.
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Anon09/03/25, 20:43No.2942748
Okay so the bracelet cord self untied quickly so I'm going back to my previous approach of tying off both ends of the bracelet cord with a fishing crimp sleeve.While trying to cut in half fishing crimp sleeves with my mini miter saw I noticed it was a difficult process and not ideal. So I came up with a easier method which was way faster, cleaner, less setup and takedown, no deburring needed, etc!The method is to lay the fishing crimp sleeve on a flat surface and line up a exacto knife blade perpendicular to it across its top and then apply moderate downward pressure to score the metal and then slide the knife carefully back and forth creating a perfect scoring line that grows deeper with each pass. After several passes the fishing crimp sleeve halves separate cleanly! This method uses a similar principle to a copper pipe cutter used in plumbing.
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Anon09/06/25, 18:06No.2943301
I installed two tensioners for the robot and they were seriously successful overall in testing. So much so that I am now confident enough in the entire pulley system to move onto the custom mini BLDC motor controller to get the motor to run motorized tests of finger movements next. Well after a couple very minor tweaks that is.So the first tensioner I installed on the extension part of the index finger joint we are working on. I used the bracelet cord folded in half and fishing crimp sleeved then sewn into the bone fabric. It seems just about perfect except for one thing: I want to keep it under mild constant tension but the bone fabric creeps/moves slowly when put under constant tension like this because it is taped into place on the bone after all. The tape is allowing the movement. This means it does not stay put and my anchor points move over time so I can't set a tension and rely on it staying at that tension long term. To resolve this I need a mechanical connection at the tension point anchoring location.
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Anon09/06/25, 18:07No.2943302
To mechanically connect my anchor point, I have decided to use tiny self tapping screws. I have avoided screwing into the bones till now but I'm making an exception here. The screws won't be going that deep and the finger bones are unlikely to break anyways IMO. So I feel comfortable with this. Here's the screws I ordered for this from Amazon:
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Anon09/06/25, 18:08No.2943303
Next, I created a tensioner for the middlemost archimedes pulley. That pulley was creating significant drag and slowing down the finger extension during testing due to rope friction. So adding a tensioner line to pull it back down toward the fingers during extension was my solution for this. It worked amazingly well. To make this, first I tied off a fishing hook eye to the bottom of the radius bone just above where my TPFE guide tubing entrance is. Then I glued a 7cm piece of bracelet cord to a piece of 6lb test .08mm braided pe fishing line with 401 glue. I secured the top of the bracelet cord to the top of the archimedes pulley system and then threaded the other end through the fishing hook eye and back up and to the bottom of the archimedes pulley where I tied it off. So it ties off at top, comes down to bottom, goes through the fishing eye then comes back up and connects to my pulley. It creates just enough downward pull to delete the rope drag slowing down that pulley from coming down and this enables the system to unwind and extend back to its starting point after each time I contracts/pulls upward to cause finger contraction. This means the finger extension now happens swiftly with no hangups and the whole archimedes pulley system is now under constant tension at all times which keeps things neat and prevents tangling issues pre-emptively. This rig was a massive success and took up hardly ANY space at all.I put the post it notes behind the archimedes pulley tensioner so you can see it. It's hard to see otherwise without a contrasting backdrop. It works amazingly well.
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Anon09/10/25, 17:26No.2944220
Back on the electronics again. Have been going over my BLDC motor schematic and making some little tweaks to it. Here's the updated schematic. It's a combination of lots of other schematics I've found online as well as some chatgpt help. With 1 being no clue and 10 being absolute expert tier in BLDC motor schematics I'm probably a 5 IMO. So take my design with a grain of salt. It will be very fun to see if it works. Note that I put a couple schematics of Electronoobs - a great youtuber on the left hand side as reference and study material. My schematic is the big one on the right. Electronoobs series of videos on BLDC motor controllers has been extremely helpful in me forming a rudimentary understanding of this stuff.
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Anon09/12/25, 03:27No.2944438
I wish I had this level of autism
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Anon09/19/25, 18:07No.2945756
I started some testing on some subsections of the BLDC motor controller and ran into some problems and learned several things. I'm working with chatgpt to resolve each issue and have been updating my schematic to reflect alot of the changes I am making. One thing I learned is that for the high side switch, the voltage from gate to source has to be 10-12v higher than the drain voltage because the drain voltage becomes the same as the source voltage once the switch is on. The voltage from gate to source then either has to start out as motor input voltage + 12 while still fitting within the voltage from gate to source max allowed voltage as stated by the datasheet or it has to rise dynamically as the source voltage rises such that the voltage from gate to source is 12 more than the source voltage as the source voltage rises to become the drain voltage. Fortunately, I can have the former for this 2430 motor since I can use 6-8.4v to supply the motor and the voltage from gate to source max value is 20v. This means I can use voltage from gate to source of 20v and this, when mosfet is first switched on, does not fry mosfet but as the source rises to become 8.4v, 20v-8.4v is still 11.6v which is sufficiently high to enable the mosfet to still stay on without anything dynamic set up. If I want to go with a 12v motor supply on some of the bigger motors later on, I will need a bootstrap circuit to supply the highside mosfet with a dynamic voltage from gate to source that rises when source voltage rises. So I added that schematic diagram to this as well as an option. I also can use a mosfet driver for this but was hoping to cut that cost and added volume taken up by just using discrete components rather than a IC for this.
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Anon09/19/25, 18:10No.2945757
Anyways, to break things down even more in testing, I decided to just test turning on and off a single highside mosfet using a pair of lab power supplies, one to provide 20v and one to provide 8.4v. To turn on I connected the gate and source to my 20v lab power supply and I connected my red alligator clip of my 8.4v lab power supply to the drain and then measured from source to the black lead of the 8.4v power supply and verified 8v on that test which worked - proving the mosfet was in fact on. I then removed the black alligator clip of the 20v lab power supply from source and shorted the source to the gate to drain the internal capacitor inside the mosfet and then tested from source to the black 8.4v clip and sure enough it was near 0v so was off. But it did gradually climb back up to 8.4v after the short from gate to source was removed due to capacitive coupling and leakage according to chatgpt. So I will need to add a 10k ohm resistor between gate and source pins to short it automatically and keep it fully drained and off fully when it's supposed to be off.
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Anon09/19/25, 18:11No.2945759
So I plan to just gradually add components little by little and test after each thing is added to ensure it is working right still after each little change and this way gradually build out the circuit, proving each thing works as we go. This is because things have all these gotchas and "oh you didn't know this little detail?" that keeps coming up and proves it was more complicated than I thought. So I just have to prove every little thing as I go. To try to find out what is wrong after the whole thing is built would be WAY harder than to figure out what went wrong when a single component is added and it was working before said component was added. So that's how I will be able to overcome this challenge best I feel.
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Anon09/20/25, 02:30No.2945851
Did your robot build itself yet?
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Anon09/28/25, 03:12No.2947430
Been studying EMI stuff. Supposedly I have to route the signal wires and power wires away from eachother to help prevent interference. Gonna be electrically noisy robot I think.
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Anon10/03/25, 11:02No.2948505
i dont think your ai idea will work, current tech just isnt there yet
honestly id be impressed if you can use AI to insert a cable into a socket, the amount of coordination is too delicate for now
even if you somehow manage to make the whole thing work, the cost will bankrupt you
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Anon10/08/25, 13:19No.2949598
if (somePersonIsFat == true)
{
do something
}if (somePersonIsFat == false)
{
do something else
}
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Anon10/09/25, 21:55No.2949874
wow Artbyrobot ive never seen such a cool project with as much ambition as this one
of course haters wont understand your genius, but i follow your posts on every platform you use (its a bit redondant but sooo interesting)
i want to be like you when im older
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Anon10/16/25, 17:52No.2951180
Dude, thank you! I've been starving for an adequate schizo-post on /diy/ for a bit now. I wish Dougposts were still a thing/possible..Anyone have any Her Dogshi(t)p Seeker insights KEK